Showing posts with label Meeching Down LNR. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Meeching Down LNR. Show all posts

Sunday, 3 January 2021

Newhaven's Open Spaces - places for wildlife and memory vaults

Memory might be mapped across our lifetimes as a line of recollections, fading in a slow dissolve over time into a series of punctuated dashes and dots.

View from Meeching Down, Newhaven, 1987

 

I've lived in Newhaven for nearly fifty years – a period of time long enough to have developed a deep and intimate passion for the town, a sense of place and a firm and unshakeable 'rootedness'. I've lived in six different places around town which, when plotted on a town map, form a shape which reminds me of the constellation of Orion the Hunter, a pattern of stars which climbs above the southeastern horizon each evening at this time of year, his loyal hunting dogs* at his side.

I have felt the most in touch with the daily pulse of the town while living in our current home, thanks in part to a broad view across the Ouse Valley. We see the comings-and-goings of the ferry and trains, the red flashes of the level crossing lights, the traffic passing or tailing back over the flyover, and people walking with their dogs along the beach at Tidemills. At least six nature reserves can be seen from the house, along with a few other smaller open spaces. Three of these (Castle Hill, Meeching Down and Bollen's Bush) form three clay-rich outcrops along the skyline which might be called Newhaven's 'three peaks'.

For a busy industrial port dominated by the flow of things through the town onto other places, it feels to me that we have a good share of open spaces. A quick calculation of the 720 hectares contained within the Newhaven Civil Parish produces a land area for the six nature reserves of approximately 112 hectares, or about 15% of the town's land. Added to this are several other open amenity spaces, undeveloped land containing woodland and scrub, hinterlands between surrounding parishes and the embracing South Downs National Park. I don't know how this compares with other towns elsewhere, but it feels like something worth cherishing and protecting.

These special places contrast with other parts of the town which have changed during my fifty years: the riverside quays have become more of a sink for waste materials passing through from elsewhere; areas of the Valley, Newhaven Heights and the floodplain have been developed or are in the process of development; and other patches of land such as the recent destruction of some stunningly diverse chalk grassland at The Crescent in Denton** have been irreparably damaged by inconsiderate management.

 

Open spaces bring people together

The special places we have now are crucial refuges and interconnecting corridors for wildlife, but they are important also for things like the town's character, our collective social identity and places to meet and enjoy time away from the thrum of daily life, to pause, reflect and contemplate. To create memories. All these things combine to grow our individual and collective sense of rootedness in the town – like a form of social and cultural woodland, our roots holding us together, anchoring down our seaside community. Having places where happy experiences and memories are lived is central to this.

Memory might be mapped across our lifetimes as a line of recollections, fading in a slow dissolve over time into a series of punctuated dashes and dots. A memoir expressed through the medium of Morse Code. At Meeching Down ('The Union') I can remember my Dad lifting me up so that I could see the sea above the line of willows behind Northdown Road, learning to ride a bike, playing in the sandpit, sledging down the snow-covered hill towards Brighton Road, an encounter with a Woodcock which is as fresh in my memory as if it happened just yesterday; and, more recently, an enjoyable evening of moth trapping with local families. When I think about those dots and dashes, I'm amazed by how many were made in the town's open spaces. 

 

Me on The Union (Meeching Down) in 1972

These are places where we come together and create memories. They have been especially important during the Covid-19 crisis, even if we have not been able to meet in such great numbers. They deserve our care and good stewardship. This year is important for the UK's role in environmental management, on both the local and global stages, and it has begun with our exit from the European Union and its changes to environmental and farming laws and culminates in September with the COP26 meeting***.

I want to challenge every person this year to find their voice and speak up for nature and the environment, to be a part of promoting the value of open spaces for now and the future and to get outside and create those moments which live long in the memory. Places which live in the front of our minds are safer and more resistant to change.



Notes

*Canis Major and Canis Minor. See: https://www.constellation-guide.com/constellation-list/canis-minor-constellation/.

**Following a change in ownership of a small plot of land with good quality semi-improved chalk grassland and which had been sensitively and lightly grazed for many years, the new owner fenced off a right of way crossing the land and cleared the flora back to the chalk substrate for an unconfirmed change of use. The South Downs Planning Authority has since ordered the owner to reinstate the land, but the rich diversity of flora will take decades to recover, even with favourable management.

*** The COP26 summit will bring nations and non-governmental organisations together to accelerate action towards the goals of the Paris Agreement and the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNCCC). See: https://ukcop26.org/.

Friday, 18 December 2020

The Holly bears the Crown: the seasonal significance of Holly 2/2

 The Holly bears the Crown: the seasonal significance of Holly 2/2

Part 2 of 2: Ecology

In the first part of this seasonal study, we established that Holly and Ivy are symbolic plants associated with the Winter Solstice, Yuletide and Christmas traditions. Ivy was used to symbolise femininity; Holly, masculinity. The name Holly is suggested by some to be a corruption of the word 'holy'. 

In folklore, Holly was apparently allowed to grow tall above the hedgeline in order to impede witches as they flew above them. For centuries at Christmas, garlands of holly and ivy have been collected to decorate the outside and inside of peoples' homes, often with ivy outside and holly within (Deck the Halls), but it was considered unlucky to do so before Christmas Eve, perhaps because cutting the boughs would allow witches to move more freely. Records describing the seasonal cutting of holly boughs date as far back as the 15th Century in the reign of Henry VI.

Holly was historically a source of winter livestock fodder at a time when greenery was otherwise limited or absent. It is for this reason that holly was grown for pollarding*  and these are reflected in British place names and peoples' names, such as Hollywood, Holt, Holm and, most importantly, Hollins. There are often no holly trees remaining at these places, but stands remain around the New Forest, Dorset, and perhaps most impressively at Staverton Thicks in Suffolk and the Stiperstones in Shropshire. 

I am not aware of many examples locally within the Greenhavens area, but there is an impressive Veteran Holly in the churchyard at Barcombe** and there is a area of dense Holly growth with the occasional mature tree at the rear of the old Union Workhouse at Newhaven, now part of the Meeching Down Local Nature Reserve in Newhaven. Is there any historical relation between the trees and the former workhouse? The land was part of the Union Workhouse from around 1835 and this is why locals still call Meeching Down 'The Union Field'.

Holly growing at The Union (Meeching Down Local Nature Reserve, Newhaven)

Holly is an impressive member of Britain's native flora. It was one of the earliest trees to colonise the land after the last ice age when a land bridge still existed with continental Europe. It grows in a range of soil types at at a range of altitudes. It is susceptible to extremes of temperature and moisture (i.e. drought and waterlogging), but it is otherwise tolerant of exposure to wind, salt, shade, browsing by animals, air pollution and pollarding. 

Holly berries are toxic to humans, but a few can be taken as a purgative. Birds such as Mistle Thrushes Turdus viscivorus (a folk-name is 'hollin cock') and Robins Erithacus rubecula are so fond of them that they will defend individual bushes as a food resource during cold seasons. For a species which colonised Britain so early, its tough adaptations are so successful at deterring invertebrate larvae that only a few species are associated with it, the most conspicuous being the leaf-mining fly Phytomyza ilicis, which causes a distinctive yellow and red blotch-mine on its tough leaves. The caterpillar of the Holly Blue butterfly Celastrina argiolus feeds on the developing berries on female trees. This butterfly has two broods each year and the second brood eggs are laid on ivy, where the caterpillars feed on the flowers. The Holly Tortrix moth Rhopobota neavana also feeds as a caterpillar on silk-spun leaves and flowers of Holly and other fruit trees.

Phytomyza ilicis larval fly mine on a holly leaf

Phytomyza ilicis larval fly mine on a holly leaf

One fascinating characteristic about Holly is that its leaves above the browseline are less spiny or spine-free. Growing spines on its leaves involves additional energy input, so it is possible that it evolved either to lose its spines above the level reached by deer or it evolved to grow spines below a certain level in response to browsing by deer. The bitter bark can be boiled to produce a sticky substance called birdlime, which was used historically to capture small birds, a link back to the Christmas carols.

And the first tree in the greenwood, it was the Holly (the Sans Day Carol). 

Happy Christmas everyone and may the yuletide log burn bright and warm in your hearths!

Less spiny leaves above the browse line

References:

* Pollarding is a form of tree management similar to coppicing in which growth is cut back periodically above the height of browsing animals such as deer. Trees are pollarded to provide winter fodder for livestock or wood products for basket-making and other traditional crafts.

** Ancient Tree Inventory link to the Barcombe Holly: https://ati.woodlandtrust.org.uk/tree-search/tree?treeid=185451&from=3523&v=1803279&ml=map&z=12&sp=24&nwLat=50.974961427664155&nwLng=-0.3158438474546976&seLat=50.82165609248365&seLng=0.3433358400453024#/

 

The Holly bears the Crown: the seasonal significance of Holly 1/2

The Holly bears the Crown: the seasonal significance of Holly 1/2



Part 1 of 2: Culture

Do you have a favourite Christmas Carol? At this time of year I dig out a favourite Christmas album called A Tapestry of Carols, performed by Maddy Prior and The Carnival Band. It is one of the most authentic collections of seasonal folk-carols I know of. Two favourite songs both have Holly Ilex aquifolium as their central theme: The Sans Day Carol and The Holly and the Ivy. They are examples of quite a few seasonal songs which use these evergreen plants as pagan and religious symbols.

The Holly and the Ivy was always a childhood favourite of mine, even if I didn't appreciate at the time how steeped it is in both Pagan and Christian tradition. 

The first and last of the six stanzas are repeated:

The holly and the ivy / Now are both full grown / 
Of all the trees that are in the wood / The holly bears the crown.

The lines are interpreted to mean that the Holly and Ivy Hedera helix, being evergreen, are the most prominent at around Midwinter, but that the holly and its value at this time is worthy of divine comparison, the crown being Christ's Crown of Thorns. The Holly is King of the Wood at Midwinter.

The middle four stanzas of the song compare the divine attributes of the holly and ivy with Jesus and the Virgin Mary: flower, berry, prickle and bark, which respectively represent purity, blood, the Crown of Thorns and the drink of wine mixed with gall, a bitter herb which Jesus was offered but refused as he was led to his crucifixion (Matthew 27:34).

The chorus contains some interesting historical and natural references:

O, the rising of the sun / The running of the deer / The playing of the merry groan / Sweet singing in the choir.

The rising of the sun refers to the rebirth and reappearance of the sun after Midwinter and heralds the new year.

The running of the deer refers to the tradition of hunting on the day following the Winter Solstice. Holly is a winter browsing plant for deer and, historically, people would certainly have felt the need to defend their 'hollins' from them. It might be an activity being described in this line of the verse. Thankfully, this hunt which at the height of its popularity evolved into the indiscriminate killing of any bird that could be taken, including songbirds, and which were then baked in pies, has been replaced by Christmas Bird Races, in which groups of enthusiasts travel across wide areas and compete to spot as many bird species as they can find. The Isle of Man's Christmas Bird Race might also be their modern version of the Manx 'wren hunt' - another cruel tradition.

The playing of the merry groan refers to a stringed 'renaissance instrument' that would have accompanied carol singers. Maddy Prior's rendition, as with most modern versions, replaces 'groan' with 'organ' (I'm not sure if the anagram of organ/groan is accidental or intentional), but it feels more clumsy than the original and doesn't rhyme or fit the metre. The original lyrics included 'groan' in the published broadside*.

Sweet singing in the choir. The pre-modern English word for choir would apparently have been pronounced 'keer', which of course rhymes with 'deer'. Who doesn't like getting together at this darkest time of year with like-minded souls for a satisfying sing-along? Wassail!

* A broadside was a large format print designed to be pasted to a wall and used for public notices amongst other things and was popular in the 18th and 19th Centuries. The first printed version of The Holly and the Ivy was printed on a broadside around 1711, although the exact date can only be estimated. Limited numbers of broadsides were also produced for things such as public executions! 


Available here